A question I get all the time is the proper way to take color from black to blonde. Here is a step by step of a client who was done at my salon that shows you exactly what to do from start to finish.
It is very important to know that when working with corrective color it is very scenario based and within ever scenario you must use personal judgment. It is great to use this step by step as a guide, but in no way should this be an exact blueprint for this situation.
So HOW DID WE DO IT?
LETS BREAK IT DOWN:
The first step is to breathe! Really taking someone to a darkest brown to any color is not as stressful as you think.
It is very important when working in this situation to have clear lines of communication; under promise and over achieve! Know the goal your client has in mind! In this case our goal was a beautiful natural wheat blonde with honey highlights.
Understanding our goal, we understood that we could take our guest their by simple added the colors we wanted to her hair without attempting to removing all of the previous artificial color. With that said, it is important to understand that color affects color and creates an effect to color. Think about that for a second………..
Ok got it……? GOOD, lets move on.
Now with that said we can begin to understand that we do not need to change her entire hair color, we only need to enhance it. Enhance it A LOT, YES! But enhance not change. Why? because we can use that dark color that is in her hair already to create a beautiful depth and shadowing effect that will help to bring out the light pieces a lot more.
So…. what do I mean? In simple terms….. tons and tons and tons of highlights.
However, before we can do that we MUST do a clarifying based treatment. Get all the crap we don’t want in the hair, out! My recommendation: Malibu treatment or Pre Art Treatment from Redken
Step 2: Prepare your Colortrak pop up foil!
Starting in the back, section the hair down from the crown to center back and from the crown to the top of the ear on each side. Begin to go through and create as many small weaved highlights as possible. My suggestion would be to never skip a section to just weave every section. Do the entire back sections increasing in strength of developer as you begin to move up to the the crown.
In between the foils apply a demi-based hair color 7 level gold from roots to ends through the entire hair.
Allow the entire back to finish processing (your goal is a level 8 Yellow Orange if applicable).
Shampoo and condition. Bring back to chair and blow dry the hair completely.
NOW DO THE FRONT. Dividing the hair into 3 sections. A mo-hwak section from the parting and the two side sections. Repeat the same coloring process including the color in between the foils and through the ends. Completely finishing the front. Allow hair to process (your goal is a level 8 Yellow Orange if applicable).
This is the most important part of your color processes. The glazing. I highly recommend you test strand your formula to conclude an accurate result. If you reach an Orange to Orange with a little Yellow, I am going to recommend to test with a Green/Yellow Base and a Blue/Gray Base. Chances our these are your best bets to maximize gold (yellow) and control unwanted reds and oranges.
Once your test is complete Glaze the entire head with your formula.
*** You may want to consider using a lighter version of your formula on your ends if the hair is porous or extremely long.
Glazing may also be a two application processes. If you feel you would like to see added control or richness you always have the option to glaze a second time.*** In this case we did not!
*** I would recommend using a level to two levels lighter on your second glaze for increased tone with minimal saturation.
Once that is finished you are DONE!!!!
*** VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: If you goal is to create a brighter or lighter version of this color, schedule a follow up color service 2 weeks after your current service to lighten the color by highlighting her hair. My color choice in this situation would be Redken’s blonde icing lightener!
Hope you enjoyed!!!